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From Abroad

Christianity runs deep in Ireland, dating back most likely to St. Patrick, around 430 AD. Glendalough, a beautiful valley (Glen) in the Wicklow Mountains only 40 minutes south of Dublin, was an ancient monastery founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century. Today, Glendalough offers a glimpse into Ireland�s long Christian history.

Glendalough valley with 11th century tower

One of the most important features of this site is a thin, round, 33 m (108 ft) tall tower, one of only 80 found across Ireland, and probably the best preserved. The tower dates back to around 11th century. Monks then led ascetic lifestyles and build small stone churches with little adornment. The towers served as bell towers and lookouts for approaching enemies, mostly Vikings. The tower�s very thick stone walls lend them stability. One narrow entrance was located at 3 m (10 ft) above ground, and that strange position is thought to have been crucial in maintaining the tower�s stability. Four windows, one facing each of the four sun�s directions, were located on the top, just below the conical roof. Here at Glendalough, the roof is intact; however, it is not original, it was rebuild using original stones collected from the ground around the tower.

The tower is surrounded by a cemetery. Most of the grave stones bear carved Gaelic crosses, with a characteristic circle across the arms. St. Kevin is buried here, but the exact spot is unknown. It was common in history to raid the graves of the saints in an effort to obtain the relics, highly sought-after due to the belief in their healing and other desirable properties. In a counter-effort, misleading grave markings were used to hide the grave site and thus to try to preserve the remains of the saints intact. Apparently it was very desirable to be buried near a saint, and that�s why this cemetery continued to function throughout the history of this area.

St. Kevin’s Church

In addition to the distinctive tower and many old gravestones, the ruins of St. Kevin�s church also remain at Glendalough. With only the walls left standing, one can look up at the sky from inside. A much smaller church in a different part of the cemetery retained its roof, and its arched ceiling can be viewed from a very dark interior. This church also retained a small bell tower rising from its roof, a miniature of the free-standing one, several feet away.

Second Church at Glendalough

The historic site at Glendalough offers a visitor center, where tourists can start with a video introducing the era of ascetic monastic living. Ever slow-moving, the video is very informative if one manages to stay awake. A small museum displays artifacts and is a valuable addition to the video, as it depicts some of ancient monastic life by showing writing, sources of dyes and food, and architecture. Guided tours open in Gaelic � the historic Irish language; this is luckily promptly followed with English.

Gate of Glendalough

Tours proceed through a stone arched gateway to what would have been the monastery grounds. The two arches are quite well preserved, though the roof and the second story housing the gatekeeper are long gone. Interestingly, back then, someone in trouble with the law could escape punishment by simply entering these gates, which then offered protection.

Kathryn (Kate) Piatek
Assistant Professor, Forest Soils and Management
Spring Break Trip to Ireland